Thursday, December 22, 2011

The Thai Ridgeback Dog


The Thai Ridgeback Dog, also known as a TRD, Mah Thai, or Mah Thai Lang Ahn, is the national dog of Thailand and has been known as Thailand's domesticated dog for centuries.  
This Spitz Primitive Hunting Dog may be one of the oldest dog breeds known to man.   According to rock art found in a cave in the Uthai-Tanee province dating over 3,000 years ago, drawings indicate a TRD-caliber dog accompanying hunters in their daily life.  During this time the TRD played a relatively large role in the lives of the people, from being their companions to protecting their families, as well as ridding the villages of rodents and hunting for larger prey.
Direct ancestry to the TRD has also been given to the Dingo family (Canus lupus), who is predominantly located throughout Australia, Thailand, and in scattered groups across Southeast Asia.
Even though we have little written history behind the origins of the TRD, we have genetically tracked the first TRD to Eastern Thailand.  Based on genetic research, it is believed that the Thai Ridgeback Dog and the Phu Quoc Dog (from Vietnam), two of the three ridged-back dogs in the world, are descended from a now extinct ridged-back dog called the Funan Ridgeback Dog from the Funan area of the region.  Due to the TRDs seclusion, it has been able to avoid cross-breeding, hence maintaining its original appearance.  The TRD has also somehow managed to avoid large genetic problems associated with seclusion and inbreeding.  This is contributed strongly to the natural selection process. 
Currently the TRD runs the streets of Thailand breeding naturally.  Selective breeding is done in order to maintain the purity of the breed and is tracked through the Dog Association of Thailand (1975), and the Kennel Club of Thailand (KCTH, formerly DAT).  A number of other international clubs and associations that track the TRD also are the Japanese Kennel Club, Asian Kennel Union, Asian Dog Organization (1987,) Breed No. 338 by the Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI 1993), the United Kennel Club (UKC), the American Rare Breed Association (ARBA), and as a companion breed with the American Kennel Club, Foundation Stock Services (2008.)  There are a number of additional registries not listed here.  A number of registries do not take all dogs, nor do they register dogs that do not already have a registration from a previous registry.   http://sabinehuntertrds.com

Friday, November 11, 2011

The Rare Thai Ridgeback Dog

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The Thai Ridgeback is a muscular, medium-sized pariah-type dog with a wedge-shaped head, triangular-shaped prick ears, and a very short, smooth coat. It has a pronounced ridge on its back formed by hair growing in the opposite direction that extends from behind the withers to the hips. Puppies are occasionally born ridgeless. Thai Ridgebacks have a muscular and streamlined body, making them extremely agile. The tail is carried upward called a sickle or sword tail. Its forehead wrinkles with enormous expression. Like many eastern breeds, the Thai Ridgeback has retained a 'scissor jaw' where upper and lower teeth interlock when the jaw bones clamp down. The tongue can be black or have black marks. Eyes are almond-shaped and brown but may be amber in blue dogs. The ears are set low and point slightly outward. The ears stand up progressively during the puppy growth period, they are not cropped. The back is straight and level. The coat is short, hard, and straight. Due to the length and density of the coat shedding is minimal, occurring once or twice yearly. Because this breed does not have an undercoat the hair does not usually bother people allergic to other breeds of dogs. 
Coat must be solid colors of blue, black, red or fawn with a black mask being acceptable on reds. However, brindle and white are also found but are not acceptable colors. For international show and competition, shoulder height should be 22-24 inches (56-61 cm) in males and 20-22 inches (51-56 cm) in females. The weight averages 35–55lbs in females and 40-60lbs in males.

.http://doggytidbits.blogspot.com
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Thursday, October 20, 2011

Importance of Puppy Vaccinations

Vaccines are important to your dog's health as they help to ward off illnesses that may otherwise cause problems. A vaccine helps the puppy's immune system build up antibodies to the specific disease for which it is being given. That way, when the puppy comes into contact with another dog with Distemper, he already has the antibodies to start fighting it before it makes him deathly ill.
There are a few major illnesses that your puppy needs to be vaccinated against when he is young. They include Canine Distemper, Bordetella, Rabies, Parvovirus, and Leptospirosis.
At six weeks of age, the puppy will receive his first vaccine for Canine Distemper, Canine Hepatitis, Corona Viral Enteritis, Parainfluenza, Parvo Virus, and Leptospirosis. The secondary vaccines come two to three weeks later up to sixteen weeks of age with annual revaccination. Rabies is given at three months, six months, and annually after that.
The puppy should start receiving his vaccines beginning before he is four months old. The vet will know what to give and in which order. They will usually give you a card that tells you what the puppy has gotten and what is left to get.
Booster shots are important to keep your pet up to date on his vaccines and to keep his immune system built up. The more immunity he has, the less chance of the puppy getting sick with the major illnesses listed above.
You should also keep in mind that some vaccines don't work on some puppies. Some puppy's immune systems are just weak by nature. If you have a puppy that is ill, even though he has received all his vaccines, you should call the vet. Never hesitate to get help if you are unsure. The vet will be able to answer your questions and get your pet feeling better. http://designerdogsandpups.blogspot.com/

Monday, June 6, 2011

Obedience School Joke

During break time at obedience school, two dogs were talking.

One said to the other, "The thing I hate about obedience school
is having to learn all this stuff we'll never use in the real world."

Friday, May 20, 2011

Housetrain Your Puppy

House training takes patience and the ability to follow a schedule.  Most puppies respond to a schedule because it gets them used to doing the same thing at the same time every day and they learn the behavior you want easier. 
    You must first determine your puppy's limit in holding his urine.  Keep a diary for several days until you spot a pattern between eating and eliminating.  This minus 15-30 minutes will give you the puppy's comfort zone.  This is how long he can hold his urine after he has gone potty.
    The puppy will usually have to go after they eat, drink, play or sleep.  Most dogs need to be taken out upwards of three to five times a day providing they haven't drank an excessive amount of water.  The best thing to do if you take him walking is not to bring him back until he does potty.  Be ready to stay outside until he does.  This could take some time.  If you bring him back in before he is ready, he most likely will have an accident before you can get him back outside again.
    The most important thing is to lavish him with praise each and every time he does the right behavior.  This reinforces it because he receives attention and a treat.  If you wait and praise him later, it won't be effective.  To keep him from finding spots, close doors to rooms with carpeting or rugs, because they prefer certain area to eliminate on.
    If the puppy does have an accident, use a pet odor neutralizer to prevent any odor.  They sometimes will sniff around until they find the exact same spot they went the last time.  Don't use ammonia based cleaners as they break down into urea, which is a part of urine.

 If you are having problems with your pup this book is highly recommended..

Painless and Positive Puppy Training.
How to train your stubborn pup... and remain relaxed!
http://e248e4ximlrzwv4qx6t8niyh8q.hop.clickbank.net/

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Fearfulness in Puppies

Puppies tend to pick up on the emotions of people around them.  They can be excitable or very calm depending on how you act to certain situations.  The tone in your voice and the way you posture yourself will tell the dog if there is something to fear or not.  If you want the pup to remain calm, then you must act this way yourself.  He is learning emotions and will mimic what you do.
    Puppies can be afraid of other dogs, especially larger ones.  Let your dog come into contact with other dogs.  When you are walking him, you may run into other dogs.  At the vet's office, he will run into other canines and maybe a few felines.  Try to find some friendly dogs at first.  This will help the pup build confidence.
    Puppies fear people at times too.  They may see them as a threat if they have had other bad experiences with people.  Try giving the person a treat to toss to the dog or let the dog walk up to the person.  Never drag a dog over to a person he doesn't want to meet.  Allow the dog to set the tone.  Give him a treat or praise when he meets someone new and doesn't growl.  If the pup becomes aggressive, you may need to have a dog trainer work with him.
    The most common fear is the fear of veterinarians.  You certainly can't blame the pup for that.  There are so many things going on at the vet's that the dog doesn't get to see anywhere else.  There is sensory overload, other animals ranging from dogs, cats, birds, and reptiles, many unfamiliar people, and the dreaded shot.  Bring a toy or blanket with you.  Bring some of his favorite treats so when he does a correct behavior, you can reward him.
http://designerdogsandpups.blogspot.com

Sunday, May 1, 2011

You have the Privilege of Naming Your Puppy!

What an honor that has been bestowed upon you!  You get to name this new little puppy you have just brought home.  You are under much pressure to come up with a name that is not too cute, not too frilly, and something that will fit the animal's personality.  Oh the pressure of a name.

    You can also use you favorite movie star or country singer, mythical figures, presidents, and family members.  The sky is the limit. 

    Some suggestions for choosing a name: 
    * You will be calling him for the next fifteen year by this name.  So pick something you really like.
    * Usually one to three syllables is good for a name.  It can get cumbersome to call out a long name every time.  There are dogs though that have three names just like a child.  Keep it simple and not too complex.
    * Always use the puppy's name when you speak to him or praise him.  When he hears it next, he will come running because he knows that it's his special word.

Don't name the puppy something that will embarrass you or others when you have to call him in public.

    Take time to play with the puppy and get to know him before choosing a moniker for the pup.  You may name her and find out later that it doesn't fit.  Give it a few days to a week and see what you think then.  Ask for advice from family and friends.

You can have a Name The Puppy party and give a prize to the person whose name you chose.  There are all kinds of names out there.  Just find one that fits your dog and makes you happy.
                                   http://karelianbeardogs.blogspot.com

Monday, April 18, 2011

Exercising Your Puppy


Puppies can be quite active and they need exercise to keep them in good shape.  Usually a brisk thirty to sixty minute walk can be quite invigorating for them.  If you are unable to do this every day, ensure your yard has more than adequate space for the pup to run around in and play.  You can even take the dog to the high school's track and walk it there.  Some people even train their dog to walk on the treadmill with them.  This will afford both of you some great time together and good exercise too.
    Evaluate your dog's needs and formulate an exercise plan that will work for both of you.  A young puppy might like to go for a run whereas an older dog may just enjoy a nice leisurely walk.  Start out with puppies for about 15 minutes.  Build up to an hour as they get bigger and can handle it.
    If you like to walk at night, use some reflective clothing so that cars will see you on the side of the road.  You can also wear light colored clothing as well.
    The best time to exercise your puppy is right before or right after they have eaten.  Also provide him with very small amounts of water, a full stomach may cause upset.
    Upon arriving back home, check the animal's paws to make sure there is nothing stuck in them.  Items such as glass, burrs, ice, weeds, and rocks need to be removed immediately. 
    Teaching your dog how to play “Fetch” can also be great exercise.  Start by rolling a toy a short distance away from the puppy and letting him go get it.  As he gets older, increase the distance you throw the toy for him.  Always give praise when he gets the toy and bring it back to you.     

                                   http://sabinehuntertrds.com

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Crate Training for the Puppy

Puppies generally need enclosed small places to feel secure. Crating works because the pup feels safe in his own private place. Some think that crating is like placing the pup in jail. In this instance, you should never use the crate to administer punishment.

Make sure the size of the crate is comparable to the dog. It is fine to get a larger crate if the dog will grow into it. Use a partition board to keep the crate smaller until the pup grows. Make sure the animal has enough room to lie down, turn around, and stand up comfortably.

Introduce him to the crate first. Let him explore around it. He may go in or just sniff around it at first. He will slowly become at ease with the structure. Begin by placing the pup in the crate for 20 minutes at a time. If he starts to whine, you should ignore it. Placing a cover over top of the cage also helps. It makes the crate seem more confined. You can also put a toy or blanket inside with him.

After twenty minutes, take him out of the crate and then straight outside to potty. Praise him if he does. Take him back inside afterward, and play with him for about half an hour. Then place him back in the crate again. If he doesn't go in, throw a treat inside. Praise when he enters and close the door. Try another twenty minutes. Puppies can be confined for one hour for each month old they are plus one hour. If your puppy is four months old, he should be ale to build up to five hours.

Never leave puppies in the crate for longer than eight hour, and this time at night. They need to be let out at regular intervals to exercise and potty. Following a schedule is the best way for a new puppy. He will come to learn what is expected and comply with minimal fuss.
                               http://designerdogsandpups.blogspot.com

Monday, March 21, 2011

Basic Puppy Care – First Weeks

After you select the puppy of your dreams, you get to take him home, but need a manual to help you succeed at raising him.  The first night is always hard because the puppy will start to miss his Mom and other siblings.  He may cry or whine through out the night.  One can hardly blame him for his actions.
    The pup will need a soft, dry, and safe place to sleep.  Perhaps throw in a cloth or toy that has his litter mates or Mom's scent on it.  If you run to him when he cries, you will be reinforcing the habit.  Placing a sheet over the box or crate will get the pup used to going to sleep at that time.
    Puppies are mischievous by nature, and like their feline companions, get into everything.  Be sure hazardous items like marbles, wires, rocks, and any type of harmful plants are far out of the puppy's way.
    Scolding your pup should be just like telling a child NO.  However, when you tell him NO, you should show him the correct behavior.  For example, if he is chewing up the newspaper, take it away and replace it wit one of his toys.  Praise him for chewing his toy.  Reprimands should be sharp and short.  Hitting or spanking may create more problems down the road.  The pup can become fearful, shy, or aggressive.  Always reward for proper behaviors.  Treats make a great re-enforcer.  So is a simple scratch between the ears and a hug.
    Feed him a dry food especially made for puppies.Feed him two or three times a day.  Usually after fifteen minutes, the pup will have eaten all he wants, you can remove the dish.  As the pup grows, after ten to twelve weeks of age, feed him one in the morning and once at night.
    All of this should help your new pup get through those first hard weeks away from his family.  The bond forming between you will last a lifetime.

http://sheltiesorshetlandsheepdogs.blogspot.com/

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Dangerous Dog Treats: What To Know Before You Treat Your Pup



What pooch does not love getting a treat or two now and then. Dog owners also love giving their dog’s treats. If you have a dog, then you have a good idea of what your dog likes to nibble on. There are so many treats available these days and they all come in all different shapes, sizes, colors, and consistencies. For every great dog treat, there are those on the market that are not so good. These treats can harm your pet by being lodged in your dog’s throat or intestines. This can cause choking or worse. If you love treating your canine friend, then you will want to be aware of those treats that can be potentially harmful. Even with treats that are not usually dangerous, you need to supervise your dog when they eat.



Greenies: Most dogs really enjoy these treats. They are advertised as a treats that help clean your dog’s teeth. However, you need to be aware that “greenies” can cause choking. This is because dogs eat these very quickly causes large chunks to lodge in the throat. Young puppies should not eat this treat and dogs that are prone to “scarfing” food. If your dog eats these treats, be aware of potential vomiting, bloody stools, and difficulty breathing.  If you notice any of these symptoms after your dog has eaten this treat, seek medical attention.



Rawhide Chews: What dog does not love snacking on these chewy treats? Raw-hides are good because it cleans your dog’s teeth and keeps your dog occupied. However, rawhides are dangerous, as well. Some rawhides that originate outside of the United States may actually be preserved with arsenic-based chemicals that will be ingested by your doggie when he or she chews.  For this reason, make certain that any rawhide treat you purchase is processed in the United States where this preservative is forbidden.  If you cannot tell where a treat originated do not buy it! In addition, you still need to watch your dog when he her she is munching on rawhides to help prevent choking. Make sure you buy rawhides that are the right size for your dog, too. A small dog needs the smaller sized rawhide treats.



Chocolate: Chocolate is a terrible thing to allow dogs to eat. Of course, sometimes dogs get into candy and cake without your knowledge. Chocolate is toxic to both dogs and cats, so you need to be aware of your dog sneaking chocolate nibbles, especially around the holidays. Chocolate contains an ingredient called theobromine. This acts in the canine about the same way caffeine acts in the human.  A little will make the doggie hyperactive, but a huge dose may be fatal. If your dog has gotten into chocolate, you need to look for vomiting, shallow breathing, and irregular heartbeat.  A visit to the emergency vet unusually results.



Bones: It seems that it is the right of every dog to be able to crunch on a real bone from time to time. Dogs love bones of all types. However, some bones can be dangerous. Both chicken and turkey bones are especially dangerous because they are brittle. When your dog chews on the, they can easily splinter and cause choking. Some pork and beef bones can also cause the same problem. Veterinarians agree that the one of the safest bones you can give your dog is a shinbone.  If you must give your dog a bone, make sure you supervise your pooch and if he or she shows signs of bleeding, then you should call your vet immediately for some advice.



This is not to say that you cannot give your dog an occasional treat. That is one of the fun parts of owning a dog. You do need to watch your dog and make sure that your dog is safe when snacking. Always pay attention to what kind of treat you give your dog in case of a recall.

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

How Do Dogs Communicate?

Dogs are one of the intelligent animals among the domestic pets. They have the ability to communicate with humans, other dogs and even other animals. They do this by using body signs and different vocals. The signs are made with the help of body movement involving eyes, ears, eyebrows, head, mouth and tail. Different vocals include barks, howls, growls, whimpers and whines. Dogs do gestures whose meaning can change depending on the situation. Like if a dog pants, it can mean that the dog is feeling hot or the dog is happy or anxious.

Confident and higher ranked dogs have a high held tail. Dogs have the feeling of submission and dominance in them. This is because the dogs live in packs, in the wild. They have hierarchy within the group. The weaker dogs submit themselves to the stronger dog. That is the reason why dogs lower their tail when they feel insecure. When the dogs fight for dominance, the fur on their tail stands up. They and even other animals, do this to increase their size in front of their enemy.

When the dog is in a confused situation, it wags its tail slowly. They are in a process of figuring out whether they should accept the situation or time or else, they have still not accepted the situation completely, but are in the process. Excited dogs wag their tails very fast. If the hip moves along with the tail, it means the dog is ready for submission to a dog of higher rank.

When the dogs get aggressive they show their fangs. If the teeth are visible, it indicates that the dog is ready to bite or attack. They also show teeth when they smile and this is an indication of submissiveness. Observing the number of teeth on display can differentiate a smile. Smile reveals only the front teeth, but when the dog snarls, all his teeth and gums can be seen. Ears are good indication about the attention levels of the dog. When the ears are erect and forward facing, means the dog is concentrating. But when the dog fears something, it lays down its ears. Some dogs hold the ears in forward and horizontal direction when they are happy.

In majority of the cases, barking is done to scare away stranger and to make the owner aware of an intruder. They also tend to bark while they are playing. They use to even convey emotions such as pleasure, fear, stress and suspicion. When the dog is excited or is playing, the barks are sharp and short. When they are stressed out or anxious, they bark repeatedly in a high pitch tone. They also bark to communicate with other animals such as cat, deer, squirrel, fox and other dogs. But the sound of barking is different.

Growling is done to threaten or to show superiority. Dogs howl when they make long-range communication. A dog yawns when it is bored and needs to be left alone. It also yawns when it is sleepy, stressed out or confused. When the dog pants with a full open mouth, it is happy. When it pants with a slightly open mouth, it needs to be played with. Dogs lift one forelimb up, when it wants to play. It will stamp its front limbs when it is excited. They scratch objects they want. Domestic dogs are trained for handshake, like human beings. They hold out a paw forward and exchange a handshake. If the dog tilts it's head in a particular direction, it means that it is trying to concentrate and recognize an unfamiliar sound.

Monday, February 7, 2011

Teaching Your Puppy Their Name

The first thing in training for puppies is teaching them their name. You cant do anything if your puppy doesn't know their name. Higher results are achieved if this training is completed several times a day for a few minutes just to strengthen your puppy's understanding of their name. Equip yourself with lots of treats and toys and put your puppy on their lead. The lead is used to give you some gentle control over your puppy's movements. Therefore if you lose their attention and they start to wander, you can stop them from walking away without running after them. One thing that you must put across and is very easily missed is that you are in charge. It can be very difficult to put this across to a puppy because you don't want to scare them. But by putting you in charge and letting it be known it will become easier in the more advanced training sessions. Use your treats and toys to attract the puppy's attention and call their name. If the puppy responds by looking at you then give them a reward. Next, hold the treat up to your face so the puppy has to respond by looking up at you. When your puppy looks up at you they are rewarded. Repeating this several times a day will decrease the time to take for your puppy to learn their name.

When you reward your puppy with a treat, also use verbal praise by telling your puppy that they are good. It may seem silly but it will be a boost for their confidence and they will recognise your voice better. If it's good for us then it will be good for them. Further in to the training the sound of your voice will be the reward and the rare treat is just a bonus. This exercise should also be completed using a toy to attract your puppy's attention. Call your puppy's name and squeak their toy or tap their ball on the floor. Next try holding the toy up to your face and call your puppy's name. Fetch is a good game for using your puppy's name and is another good bit of training for your puppy to learn their name. By throwing their toy gently to (remember, they are on their lead so don't throw the ball to far!). allow your puppy to chase their toy, and gently guide them back to you to continue the game.

The best results can be achieved by experimenting with different toys, treats and tones of voice to learn what works best for your puppy. You must remember to reward your puppy when they respond to their name. This is how they will come to know that this specific sound really is their name.

When you are confident of getting your puppy's attention and holding it for a short period of time, you could start to introduce new lessons and positions into your training sessions.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stephen_Burrows

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Peanut Butter; Oats Glazed Goodies

Peanut Butter; Oats Glazed Goodies
1 cup water
1 cup quick cooking oats
1/4 cup butter -- half stick
1/2 cup cornmeal
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup milk
1/3 cup peanut butter
3 cups whole wheat flour
Boil water in a saucepan. Add oats and butter. Let oats soak for ten
minutes. Stir in the cornmeal, sugar, salt, milk, peanut butter, and
egg. Mix thoroughly. Add the flour, one cup at a time (you may not
need the entire amount) until a stiff dough forms.
Knead dough on floured surface until smooth, about 3 minutes. Roll to
1/2" thickness. Place on a greased cookie sheet.
Glaze:
1 large egg
2 tbsp. milk
Mix well. Brush glaze on dough with a pastry brush. Bake in a preheated
325 degree oven

Saturday, January 1, 2011

HANDY DOG TRAINING TIPS

Despite what it seems to be from a distance, dog training doesn’t need you to be a fearless Hercules, all it asks of you is to keep a few basics in mind. First, establish who the boss is, remind your dog again and again that you are the one on two feet while he is still on all fours, and thus what you say is Gospel and what he barks is not. Second, speak in a tone which oozes superiority, something on the lines of your first grade math teacher. Third, routine is everything so keep your training tactics consistent. Once you master these three techniques you will be the master of every single dog around!

Your heart might melt into a mush every time your cute little pup cocks his head, but don’t let that get in the way of your establishing who the master is. Go gooey eyed too frequently and you are likely to pay with your carpets and sandals, which it will most merrily chew through. Treat your pup the way you would treat a little kid, setting it strict boundaries and letting it know what goes and what most definitely doesn’t. Establish gestures like pointing etc. which will give the dog a cue to act in a certain way.

You might not think it possible but dogs, like your kids, can tell when you mean business, slacken up a bit with them and they’ll know you can be taken for a ride. Interestingly enough they also have this instinct for intonation; be strict when you want him to stay put at the yard, but be enthusiastic when you are asking him if he would like to go for a walk. It’s funny how you’ll see your own mood reflected in his responses. This is the primary step for you to establish the kind of communication with your dog which will allow you to calm him or set him up for work with a single word.

One of the main methods of training your dog is to keep a certain consistency in your approach towards him. Keep your intonations, gestures and words for expressing dissatisfaction the same every time, so that he gets used to the idea easily. A young pup who grows up with a certain set of commands will respond to them more promptly than one who is frequently confused by conflicting orders. The more consistent your commands are, the better trained your dog is, the better trained your dog is the greater your confidence in him regarding his obedience to you. A few other ways of establishing consistency are to use the same door when taking your doggy out for a walk, give him the same kind of pat every night before retiring for the day, so that he knows exactly what time it is.

Little things like these will help you predict your dog’s behavior more accurately.
Most importantly, however, remember to shower your love and affection on the little one, continue your training through little games which he might enjoy, and remember to treat him every time he does a task well, after all like a child it too needs to be appreciated and given its bit of fun.